adventures in estonia

Storyteller and adventurer Mike Perdue shares this written and visual guide to some of his favourite trips to take around Estonia

So, you’ve found yourself contemplating a spot on Earth simply called, ESTONIA.

You gaze into a digital device conjuring images, words, a sense of “what’s going on here” attempting to get a grip on what a visit or even a move might mean in real terms.

Here I will try giving a glimpse into my favourite trips to take around Estonia. These are based on journeys I've taken in the 2 years I've lived here, or during the previous 8 years visiting and dealing with Estonia.

In practical terms, my move to the Baltics involved a move to Riga, Latvia. Keeping it brief, I dealt in alcohol, namely the “craft beer” scene. As an entrepreneur with skin in the game, it was soon apparent the leading lights of quality production came from North of the border, yep, Estonia.

Early on it was a pleasant “shock” to discover that basically all interactions taken with Estonian producers and logistics companies were easy to transact in English, messages were returned and phones answered…Now, that might seem rather blasé. Yet, without sandbagging my Latvian partners, dealing with Estonia was so 21st century. The connectivity to “the West” in terms of business dealings and more was a pleasant surprise.

Beyond Tallinn

The reality of Estonia the country is to know the rather sharp dichotomy between Tallinn and the very rural aspect of the rest of the territory.

While to me Tallinn is very modern feeling with it’s glass towers, good transport system, and vast amounts of new housing, getting outside into Nature you rather step back in time.

While more or less a flat expanse of mixed forest and farms spreading inward from the Baltic Sea, a mere 1-3 hour trip by car, train or bus takes you into the deep hinterlands.

Idyllic old villages with their unique wooden houses still dot certain remote areas.

The Highlands of South Estonia

In the great Southeast rise the “mountains” of the Baltic region. Centered around the 4-season resort town Otepää, ski trails abound in winter, the warmer seasons abound with festivals, hiking, great biking roads, and spa opportunities, including the famous sauna experience.

The regions of Võrumaa and Setomaa (part of Võru County) are studded with sparkling lakes, all types of outdoor activities and the yearly Seto Folk Fest in Värska provides an insight into one of Estonia’s more unique linguistic minority groups.

Tartu: 2024 European Capital of Culture

Leaving out the university town Tartu (Estonia’s 2nd city) would be tantamount to a crime!

Designated as a “2024 European Capital of Culture” this small city punches above it’s weight in many aspects.

Student life, music, arts, excellent museums, craft breweries(!) and so much more.

Stone Age findings attest to the ancient links to the settlement. The first recorded mention of Tartu is from the 11th century as part of the Kievan Rus, though local populations had established wooden battlements by the 7th century as the town gained importance.

Moving East from Tartu you encounter Europe’s 5th largest lake, Peipus. With a vibe all it’s own, from Old Believer villages complete with their “onion fests”, coastal fishing culture and laid-back summer resorts, the area offers a watery playground for anyone venturing out for a weekend retreat.

Compelling Narva

Moving North from Peipsi (or, East of Tallinn), lies Narva, Estonia’s 3rd city. Straddling the border of Russia, Narva has Estonia’s oldest-known settlement dating back to 1000 B. C.

The scene of numerous empirical struggles over time, in modern history it was nearly destroyed by both retreating German forces and encroaching Soviet forces near the end of the WWII.

Distinctly Russian due to the banishment of the Estonian population during Soviet occupation, Narva has grappled with identity issues since Independence. That said, Narva is an intriguing spot to visit, historical castles remain, the Baroque Old City has been rebuilt and it is a well-loved spa center!

Nature’s Solitude

Moving broadly across the interior, parks abound and nature areas dot the bucolic countryside.

One rather important discovery quite early in ventures over the border (disclosure-my partner and I bicycle tour/wild camp) was just how the Estonian system of management extended to CLEAN outdoor toilets…what??  However I can assure you, if it is the “Finnish model” or just better ethics, it beats the neighbors, enough said!

Bogs and swamps attract with their regional and national park designations.

Soomaa National Park is not far from the city of Pärnu. It offers up an incredible system of bogs, rivers and swamp forests for the outdoor enthusiast.

An important refuge for birds, Soomaa’s protected wetlands are a water-lovers dreamscape. Numerous canoeing options are one of the highlights, the park is known locally as the home of the “5th season”.  This late-winter phenomenon of snow-melt and rains creates backup of water that floods up to half the park allowing canoe access through forest and roads, a unique experience!

Pärnu: Seaside Summer Charm

Nearby Pärnu is known as Estonia’s “Summer Capital”.

Beaches, spas, and numerous festivals contribute to the vacation vibes, be prepared to rub some shoulders come mid-summer!

Moving North up the West coast, small ports offer ferry service to some of the crown jewels of Estonia, it’s islands.

Tranquility, Island-Style

Truly some of the best of tranquility available, Muhu, Saaremaa, Hiiumaa, Vormsi, Kihnu islands (and more!) provide a feeling, an essential quietude which, in my opinion is very hard to capture in most vacation spots.

Very rural, you are likely outnumbered by sheep and cows. Towns of much size are few and far between (Kuressaare excepted). Populated by rugged and hardy individualists, the islanders are justly proud of their place in the world.

Critical birding areas are protected and no-go areas during much of the season, yet with boundless good roads and a coastal paradise at hand, cycling and kayaking are de riguer!

A quick mention of Kihnu… recognized as one of the last matriarchal communities in Europe, the traditions are upheld to this day by a small but tight-knit group of islanders. Visit if you can.

Relaxed Resort Among the Ancient Ruins in Haapsalu

On and on, Haapsalu, its ancient ruins serving as backdrop in a relaxed resort setting, the harbor for Hiiumaa and Vormsi just outside town.

Up the coast to Paldiski, site of a former Soviet submarine base, the crumbling limestone cliffs offer an exciting difference from flatter shorelines to the south.

I have not mentioned lighthouses, but if you are a lighthouse junkie, Estonia can lure you in with many an excuse for a road-trip.

With this synopsis, I confess there are still many “blank spots” on the map to explore.

Treat this as a teaser. My positive engagement with Estonian nature and the infrastructure that encourages a human element is truly an endorsement.

Winter at 59 degrees North is, well, dark.

But the flipside is Summer and the incredible “Lightness of Being…in Estonia”!

Editor's Note: Mike is not only the publican of AFTRWRK; he's also become a great friend to the e-⁠Residency team. Mike has helped AFTRWRK fast become the go-to place for a post-work beverage for public and private sector workers in the vibrant business district of Ülemiste City. Make a visit to AFTRWRK next time you're in Tallinn.